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JOURNAL
OF
SPORTS SCIENCE &
MEDICINE
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Research
article
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EFFECT OF AN ON-SIGHT LEAD ON THE PHYSIOLOGICAL AND PSYCHOLOGICAL RESPONSES TO ROCK CLIMBING |
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Nick Draper1  ,
Glenys A. Jones2, Simon Fryer2, Chris Hodgson2
and Gavin Blackwell1 |
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1School of Sciences and Physical Education, University of Canterbury, Christchurch, Canterbury, NZ 2Centre for Sports Science and Medicine, University of Chichester, Chichester, West Sussex, UK |
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© Journal of Sports Science and Medicine (2008) 7, 492 - 498 Search Google Scholar for Citing Articles |
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| ABSTRACT | |||
| Rock climbing is a multi-discipline activity that encompasses
forms such as bouldering, top roping and lead climbing on natural and artificial
climbing surfaces. A major focus of research has been explanation of physiological
functioning. More recent research indicates that anxiety levels are elevated
for less experienced climbers and in response to lead climbing ascents.
Research regarding the demands of rock climbing has placed a lesser focus
on the interaction of psychological and physiological factors. The objective
of this study was to examine the effects of an on-sight lead climb on the
physiological and psychological demands of the climb in comparison with
a subsequent lead climb. Ten intermediate level climbers volunteered to
complete the two climbing trials, on-sight lead climb (OSLC) and second
lead climb (LC2). Climb time, lactate concentrations (baseline, pre climb,
post climb and 15 min post climb), heart rate (1 min pre climb, peak HR,
1 min post climb and average climb across the duration of the climb), oxygen
consumption, pre climb anxiety (CSAI-2R) were assessed for each climber
for both trials. Results indicated that there were significant differences
in self reported pre climb somatic and cognitive anxiety (t(9) = 2.79, p
= 0.01, t(9) = 1.94, p = 0.043), climb time (t(9) = 3.07, p = 0.0052) and
post climb lactate concentrations between the climbs (t(9) = 2.58, p = 0.015).
These results indicate that psychological as well as physiological stress
impact upon the response to rock climbing. The higher anxiety levels associated
with an OSLC are likely to have influenced the physiological responses for
the intermediate climbers in this study. Future studies should take into
account the type of climbing, experience of climbers and the number of ascents
as well as taking into account the interaction between physiological and
psychological factors in response to rock climbing.
Key words: Rock climbing, on-sight lead, lactate concentration, oxygen consumption. |
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